A charivari is a decorative chain that men wear with their Lederhose (the traditional Bavarian leather breeches), draped across the front flap. Charms such as horn tips, animal teeth, a Gamsbart, or coins hang from it, and each piece tells something about its wearer.
Here you'll learn where the charivari comes from, how to wear it correctly, what the individual charms are said to mean, and what to look for when buying one. We are the Kube family from Bad Endorf, and under the name Trachtenschmuck Stephan we have been making traditional jewelry since 1949.
The essentials at a glance
- Worn: on the lederhosen, hooked onto the two outer buttons of the front flap.
- Length: usually around 33 cm (13 in), a little more or less depending on the lederhosen. Our charivaris are 35 cm (13.8 in) long.
- Origin: originally a watch chain, documented in Munich pieces from between 1840 and 1860.
- Charms: hunting trophies, coins, and keepsakes. Their meanings are tradition, not fixed rules.
Where does the word charivari come from?
The word comes from French and means something like racket or din. It refers to the jingling of the many charms when the wearer moves.
The charivari started out as a watch chain. The Museum Europäischer Kulturen in Berlin holds a charivari from Munich, made between 1840 and 1860, about 30 cm (11.8 in) long, that still has a watch key and a miller's coat of arms attached. Over time, the practical chain for the pocket watch became a piece of jewelry in its own right.
How do you wear a charivari correctly?
The charivari hangs at the front of the lederhosen, across the front flap. Both ends are hooked onto the outer buttons, and the chain falls in a gentle curve between them. That way the charms sit in the center and are easy to see.
Single or double row? Single-row models look understated, double-row ones bolder and more festive. It's a matter of taste.
Whether a charivari is part of the festive dress in a traditional dress club (Trachtenverein) is up to the club itself. If in doubt, ask your club's Trachtenwart, the person in charge of the club's dress code.
What do the charms mean?
Charms have always been given meanings. This is living tradition, not a rulebook, so the rule here is always: if something means something to you, it can go on your chain.
| Charm | What it is | What it is said to mean |
|---|---|---|
| Horn tip, antler | Tip of an antler or horn, set in a mount | considered a sign of strength |
| Teeth (boar tusk, Grandl) | Wild boar tusk or red deer canine, often a replica | considered a sign of courage |
| Claws | only from non-protected animals | considered a sign of foresight |
| Coins, thalers | old or restruck coins, often set in a horn rosette | considered a sign of prosperity |
| Gamsbart, hare's foot, deer hoof, rock crystal | Mementos of hunting and the mountains | a personal memento, depending on the wearer |
One example from our workshop is the “Maximilian” charivari. From left to right it carries a horn tip, hare's foot, deer leg, coin in a horn rosette, large boar tusk, rock crystal, Gamsbart, and a small boar tusk: eight charms on two rows.
Real trophy or replica?
Many charivaris carry real natural pieces such as horn tips, deer hooves, or a Gamsbart (a tuft of chamois hair). Because every piece comes from nature, every charivari looks a little different. Other charms, such as the Grandl (red deer tooth), are often made as replicas.
Important when buying: parts of protected animals must not be traded. These include, for example, claws of birds of prey, feathers of protected bird species, and parts of moles. Reputable makers don't use such charms. None of the charms on our charivaris come from a protected species.
“Drah di um, drah di um. A horn tip for the charivari is taking shape. Every piece is clamped in and turned by hand, real handcraft. Then the pin gets a mount for the charivari.”
Sebastian Kube, Trachtenschmuck-Manufaktur
Old rules and folk beliefs
A few rules about the charivari get passed around, and you'll often hear them at festivals:
- Only an odd number of charms: a nice custom, but not a must.
- A charivari may only be inherited: many pieces really are handed down. But buying a charivari and turning it into an heirloom yourself is just as much a tradition.
Feel free to share both as folk beliefs, but neither is a fixed rule.
Charivari for women?
In club dress, the charivari is for men. For the dirndl, there are delicate dirndl charivaris, worn on the bodice or the apron. They are festival fashion, not club dress, and very popular at folk festivals.
Silver or silver-plated?
A charivari made of solid silver is an heirloom and priced accordingly. Our charivaris have a chain of electroplated brass in an antique silver-tone finish, and the charms are set and assembled by hand in our workshop.
“Our charivaris are also an alternative for anyone who doesn't want to wear real silver to a festival.”
Sebastian Kube
To go with it, take a look at our traditional knives and lapel pins and hat ornaments.
Charivari FAQ
Where do you wear the charivari on lederhosen?
Across the front flap, hooked onto the two outer buttons.
How long is a charivari?
Usually around 33 cm (13 in). Our models are 35 cm (13.8 in) long and fit most lederhosen.
How many charms go on a charivari?
There's no fixed number. Some people stick to an odd number, but that's a custom, not a rule.
Can I buy a charivari, or do I have to inherit it?
Of course you can buy one. The idea that it may only be inherited is folk belief.
Is a charivari a good gift?
Yes, for example for a wedding, a milestone birthday, or a first pair of lederhosen. You'll find more ideas under Gifts for Him.
Read more in our guide: Traditional jewelry for men and Cleaning and caring for traditional jewelry
About the author: Sebastian Kube runs the Trachtenschmuck-Manufaktur in Bad Endorf in the Chiemgau region together with his family. Under the name Trachtenschmuck Stephan, the family has been making traditional jewelry, buttons, and clasps since 1949, now in the fourth generation. More about us
Sources: Museum Europäischer Kulturen, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (charivari, Munich, around 1840 to 1860); Wikipedia: Charivari (Schmuckkette) (German); German Federal Species Protection Ordinance (Bundesartenschutzverordnung) and CITES (WISIA, German Federal Agency for Nature Conservation).