A dirndl bodice usually needs 4 to 6 pairs of bodice hooks, through which a chain is laced crosswise from top to bottom. Depending on the number of hooks and the length of the ends, the chain is usually 2.5 to 4 m (8.2 to 13.1 ft) long.
Here you'll learn how many hooks you need, how to lace step by step, how to calculate the chain length, and how bodice hooks differ from buttons and hook-and-eye fasteners. We are the Kube family from Bad Endorf, and under the name Trachtenschmuck Stephan we have been making traditional jewelry, buttons, and bodice hooks since 1949.
The essentials at a glance
- How many: as a rule of thumb, 4 to 6 pairs, depending on the length of the bodice.
- Lacing: crosswise, from top to bottom.
- Chain length: pairs times spacing times two, plus the ends you want hanging down. That usually comes to 2.5 to 4 m (8.2 to 13.1 ft).
- Terms: “Haftel” is not another word for bodice hook.
What are bodice hooks?
Bodice hooks are small decorative plates with a hook that are sewn on in pairs, left and right, at the front of the dirndl bodice. A chain is threaded through the hooks, called the Geschnür (lacing). It holds the bodice closed and is jewelry at the same time.
In our workshop, the hooks are soldered on by hand after stamping and then finished. A pair always consists of a left and a right hook.
How many bodice hooks do I need?
The rule of thumb is 4 to 6 pairs. How many you'll need depends on the length and cut of your bodice. What matters is even spacing and lacing that holds well at the top and bottom.
What size are bodice hooks?
Our bodice hooks are between 20 and 34.5 mm (0.79 and 1.36 in) wide and between 15 and 27.5 mm (0.59 and 1.08 in) high. A selection:
| Model | Width | Height | Look |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bodice hook 13 | 20 mm (0.79 in) | 20 mm (0.79 in) | small, triangular |
| Bodice hook 16 | 22.3 mm (0.88 in) | 17.6 mm (0.69 in) | small, delicate |
| Bodice hook 2 | 28 mm (1.10 in) | 15 mm (0.59 in) | classic, flat |
| Bodice hook 8 | 29.5 mm (1.16 in) | 27.5 mm (1.08 in) | large, bold |
| Bodice hook 19 | 31 mm (1.22 in) | 19 mm (0.75 in) | curved, richly detailed |
| Bodice hook 5 | 34.5 mm (1.36 in) | 20.5 mm (0.81 in) | wide, filigree |
Small hooks suit delicate bodices, while large hooks make a clear statement. If you're adding to an old dirndl, it's best to measure one of the existing hooks.
Step by step: lacing a dirndl correctly
Lacing goes crosswise, from top to bottom.
- Place the middle of the chain in the top pair of hooks so both ends are the same length.
- Guide the left end diagonally down into the right hook of the next pair.
- Guide the right end diagonally down into the left hook of the same pair. That creates the first cross.
- Repeat pair by pair down to the bottom pair of hooks.
- Let both ends hang down evenly and tighten the lacing evenly so the bodice sits smoothly.
How long does the chain need to be?
Here's how to calculate the length of the lacing chain: number of hook pairs times the spacing between pairs times two, plus the ends you want hanging down at the bottom.
Example: you have 6 pairs of bodice hooks spaced 7 cm (2.8 in) apart. 6 times 7 cm times 2 is 84 cm (33 in). If each end should hang down 90 cm (35.4 in), add 180 cm (70.9 in). That's 264 cm (8.7 ft) in total. In this case, order 3 m (9.8 ft).
For a simple fashion dirndl with short ends, we recommend at least 1.5 m (4.9 ft). Our pea chain comes in antique silver-tone and silver-plated, each from 1 m to 5 m (3.3 to 16.4 ft) in half-meter steps. Need more? Just send us a message.
“No cheap plastic ribbon, no plain cord, but a lacing that's part of the whole look.”
Sebastian Kube, Trachtenschmuck-Manufaktur
Bodice hooks, buttons, or hooks and eyes?
Not every bodice is laced. Some dirndls close at the front with traditional buttons, others with concealed hooks and eyes.
“Bodice hooks, buttons, or hooks and eyes? All three have their place. What ends up on the bodice depends on the fabric, the cut, and personal feel.”
Sebastian Kube
By the way, “Haftel” is not another word for bodice hook. According to the Duden dictionary, a Haftel is a hook-and-eye fastener like the ones found on many garments. The bodice hook, on the other hand, is visible and carries the lacing.
Bodice hook FAQ
How many bodice hooks does a dirndl need?
Usually 4 to 6 pairs. That's a rule of thumb, and the length and cut of the bodice are what really decide.
How do I lace a dirndl with bodice hooks?
Crosswise, from top to bottom. The middle of the chain goes into the top pair of hooks, then the ends are guided alternately and diagonally into the opposite hooks.
How long does the bodice chain need to be?
Usually 2.5 to 4 m (8.2 to 13.1 ft). Multiply pairs by spacing by two and add the length of the hanging ends.
Is a Haftel the same as a bodice hook?
No. A Haftel is a hook-and-eye fastener, while the bodice hook holds the visible lacing.
Can I buy a single bodice hook as a replacement?
Yes, our bodice hooks also work as replacements for a lost hook. It's best to measure an existing hook and compare width and height.
To go with it, take a look at vest clasps and special parts and more dirndl jewelry. If you'd like to decorate your bodice even more, our article Charivari: Meaning, Charms, and How to Wear It also covers dirndl charivaris.
See all bodice hooks and bodice chains
Read more in our guide: Apron clasps: sizes and attachment and Traditional buttons: the right size
About the author: Sebastian Kube runs the Trachtenschmuck-Manufaktur in Bad Endorf in the Chiemgau region together with his family. Under the name Trachtenschmuck Stephan, the family has been making traditional jewelry, buttons, and clasps since 1949, now in the fourth generation. More about us
Sources: Duden: Haftel (German); measurements from our range; experience from our own workshop.