Traditional buttons are sized in Linien (lines), and one Linie equals 0.635 mm (0.025 in). Measure the diameter of your old button in millimeters, divide it by 0.635, and pick the closest Linien size.
Here you'll find a conversion table, the usual button sizes for dirndl, vest, Janker jacket, and lederhosen, and a simple formula for the buttonhole. We are the Kube family from Bad Endorf, and under the name Trachtenschmuck Stephan we have been making traditional jewelry and buttons since 1949.
The essentials at a glance
- Unit: 1 Linie = 0.635 mm, and 40 Linien make one inch (25.4 mm).
- Usual sizes: dirndl 12 to 15 mm (0.47 to 0.59 in), vest 15 to 18 mm (0.59 to 0.71 in), Janker 20 to 25 mm (0.79 to 0.98 in), lederhosen with staghorn 18 to 20 mm (0.71 to 0.79 in).
- Buttonhole: diameter plus height of the button, and for a ball button half the circumference.
- If in doubt: measure your old button and compare it with the millimeter size on the product page.
What is a Linie?
The Linie (line) is an old unit from button making that is still used today. 40 Linien make one inch, or 25.4 mm. So one Linie is exactly 0.635 mm, often rounded to 0.64 mm on product pages. It's usually abbreviated as L, so a button of 24 L is about 15 mm (0.6 in).
Conversion table: Linien to millimeters and inches
The middle column is the calculated value. For comparison, the right column shows how big our staghorn button actually turns out in the same Linien size.
| Linien | Calculated | Staghorn button (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| 18 | 11.43 mm (0.45 in) | 11.5 mm |
| 20 | 12.70 mm (0.50 in) | 13 mm |
| 22 | 13.97 mm (0.55 in) | 14 mm |
| 24 | 15.24 mm (0.60 in) | 15 mm |
| 28 | 17.78 mm (0.70 in) | 18 mm |
| 30 | 19.05 mm (0.75 in) | 19 mm |
| 32 | 20.32 mm (0.80 in) | 20 mm |
| 36 | 22.86 mm (0.90 in) | 23 mm |
| 40 | 25.40 mm (1.00 in) | 25 mm |
The Linie is a nominal size. Depending on shape and rim, a button turns out a little larger or smaller. Our traditional button no. 2, for example, measures 16.5 mm (0.65 in) in 24 Linien. That's why every one of our buttons also lists its size in millimeters.
Which button size for which garment?
| Garment | Usual size | Roughly equals |
|---|---|---|
| Dirndl, bodice | 12 to 15 mm (0.47 to 0.59 in) | 19 to 24 Linien |
| Vest, waistcoat | 15 to 18 mm (0.59 to 0.71 in) | 24 to 28 Linien |
| Janker, traditional jacket | 20 to 25 mm (0.79 to 0.98 in) | 32 to 40 Linien |
| Lederhosen (staghorn) | 18 to 20 mm (0.71 to 0.79 in) | 28 to 32 Linien |
These are guidelines. You're safest if you measure an existing button or have the pattern of your garment at hand.
How to measure your button
- Lay the button flat on a ruler, or use a caliper.
- Measure the diameter at the widest point in millimeters.
- Divide the value by 0.635. The result is the size in Linien.
- Pick the closest size and compare it with the millimeter size listed for the button.
Example: your old vest button measures 18 mm (0.71 in). 18 divided by 0.635 is 28.3, so you're looking for a button with 28 Linien.
How big does the buttonhole need to be?
For flat and domed buttons: buttonhole equals diameter plus height of the button. A button with a 20 mm (0.79 in) diameter and 4 mm (0.16 in) height needs a 24 mm (0.94 in) buttonhole.
For a ball button, use half the circumference. At 13.5 mm (0.53 in) diameter (22 Linien), that's 13.5 times 3.14 divided by 2, or about 21 mm (0.83 in). If in doubt, sew a test buttonhole on a fabric scrap first.
Why a good button takes work
Many of our metal buttons go through several steps in our workshop: they are stamped, shaped, and finished in our own electroplating shop.
“7 to 9 steps. For one button.” And: “Once you've held a really well-made button in your hand, you'll never buy one out of a bag again.”
Sebastian Kube, Trachtenschmuck-Manufaktur
For vests and Janker jackets, we also carry vest clasps and special parts, and sewing notions under buttons and haberdashery.
Traditional button FAQ
How many millimeters is one Linie?
One Linie is 0.635 mm (0.025 in). 40 Linien make one inch.
What button size do I need for a dirndl?
12 to 15 mm (0.47 to 0.59 in) is usual, which is about 19 to 24 Linien.
What size are staghorn buttons on lederhosen?
Usually 18 to 20 mm (0.71 to 0.79 in), so about 28 to 32 Linien. Staghorn is a natural material, so individual buttons vary slightly.
I only have one button left. Can I buy a single one?
Yes, you can buy our traditional buttons individually too, for example to replace a lost button. Measure the old button and pick the closest size.
How big should I make the buttonhole?
Diameter plus height of the button. For a ball button, use half the circumference.
Where the charivari hooks onto the buttons of the lederhosen is explained in our article Charivari: Meaning, Charms, and How to Wear It.
Read more in our guide: Bodice hooks and lacing and Traditional jewelry for clubs
About the author: Sebastian Kube runs the Trachtenschmuck-Manufaktur in Bad Endorf in the Chiemgau region together with his family. Under the name Trachtenschmuck Stephan, the family has been making traditional jewelry, buttons, and clasps since 1949, now in the fourth generation. More about us
Sources: Wikipedia: Button (40 lines equal one inch); measurements from our range; experience from our own button production.